Dear friends and family,
You might remember that our trip to Peru didn’t exactly end the way we hoped it would.
Yet despite our misadventures with political turmoil here, Peru was Perry’s favorite part of our travels through South America. (Pete’s was the cruise to Antarctica, which, fair.)
Peru was amazing. It had the travel trifecta: fantastic food, amazing ancient ruins and culture, and cheap prices. What more could you want?
We hope to return to the Sacred Valley in the future, and yes, travel is possible again! Peru reopened to tourists a couple of months ago, and at this point, all is well for the tourists. We recommend that you do your research, contact a local hotel to help with your plans (we have a rec!), and go.
The biggest reason why we loved our time in Peru is that we chose to base ourselves in Ollantaytambo (pronounced Oye-yawn-tay-tambo), a village in the Sacred Valley, not Cusco.
Ollantaytambo is a dream. Cusco is not.
Cusco is overcrowded and lacks charm. It’s also at an altitude-sickness-inducing 11,152 feet above sea level, whereas Ollantaytambo is a much more manageable 9,160 feet – just below the threshold that will make most travelers seriously ill. (Acclimating in Ollantaytambo is recommended even if you ignore our advice and later want to spend time in Cusco.)
Now that you know why Ollantaytambo is so great, let’s get into the details…
Pete’s Travel Diary
About Ollantaytambo and the Inca
The town of Ollantaytambo is filled to the brim with history. Many of the inhabited dwellings were once built either by the Inca or by a tribe that was later conquered by the Inca. Current theories suggest the latter due to the mishmash of building styles, temples, and ruins in the area, some of which were built pre-Inca. One also cannot rule out later inhabitants as people have lived in the Sacred Valley for hundreds of years since. Many of the dwellings and the ingenious irrigation built by the Inca and their predecessors in the village are still used to this day.
For historical context, the Inca started as one of many tribes of South America, eventually becoming a dominant empire that reigned over a large area of the continent. They controlled essentially the entire western coast of South America’s usable land from 1438 to 1533 CE (Common Era, formerly called AD), though the Inca had been flourishing since the 1200s prior to their final expansion. For perspective, the Italian Renaissance was occurring at roughly the same time on separate continents.
The rapid and sometimes unstable expansion of the empire to its largest boundaries coincided with the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors as well as an internal war of succession within the Inca Empire. These bloody occurrences, as well as the spread of disease (what convenient timing), led to the end of their empire.
There are, however, still some tribes of the Inca in existence today. A few bloodlines escaped the demise of their empire and some reportedly uphold some of their old culture to this day.
Where to Stay: Ayllu Bed and Breakfast
We stayed at the most delightful bed and breakfast in the small Peruvian village of Ollantaytambo. Ayllu B&B is a new business in a nicely remodeled building. It feels more like a home than a hotel.
And did we mention that it has a rooftop deck with a stunning view? They serve breakfast daily up there. We started the day while gazing upon ancient ruins.
The hosts, Nicol and Antonio, went above and beyond to make us feel welcome during our visit and are two of the nicest people we have met during our travels. We had so much fun chatting with them about life in Peru and the United States. They’re the sort of people you would adopt into your own family without hesitation after only briefly knowing them.
From Ayllu B&B we were able to explore new ruins almost daily (and were able to do so safely despite the unfortunate events going on all around Peru). Each morning our host would update us on the news of that morning and advise us on activities to maximize safety and enjoyment. Normally, they’re happy to help you arrange tours, drivers, and guides.
We highly recommend them, and if you seek to adventure through the jungles and ancient ruins of Peru, there is no better place to set up your base of operations. The B&B is a 10-15 minute walk from the center of Ollantaytambo.
If you share our newsletter, don’t merely do it for us. Do it for Nico and Antonio. Their business deserves the highest praise and the most advertising that can be provided. If you would prefer you can share this link to their Booking.com website which is just as good.
To our hosts at Ayllu B&B, if you are reading this, we hope you are well and safe, and we hope your business thrives for years to come.
Perry’s Travel Diary
What to Do: All of the Ruins in Ollantaytambo
We like small and charming farming communities. We like ancient ruins. We like hiking, or at least endure it for the sake of taking in the many views of the world we can’t see from an armchair. Ollantaytambo has all of the above!
There are tons of hikes, trails, and ruins in Ollantaytambo. We were occupied for our entire week and walked so much that we both developed blisters.
I also enjoyed the ruins in Ollantaytambo even more than Machu Picchu. The ruins in Ollantaytambo – and, presumably, the other small towns in the Sacred Valley – were less crowded but just as interesting and magnificent as Machu Picchu. I didn’t realize just how much was here before we visited. You could easily spend two busy weeks exploring Pisac, Moray, Urubamba, the salt mines… I could go on. I hope to return someday.
What’s even better is that all of these ruins were free to visit with the exception of the main Ollantaytambo ruins/temple.
Anyways, here’s where we went:
Pinkuylluna
Our first morning at Ayllu B&B, I walked onto the rooftop deck for breakfast, looked out at the gorgeous hill, and exclaimed, “Look! There’s ruins all the way up there!”
Our host smiled and told us they were called Pinkuylluna.
These stone structures are high up on a steep hill. It’s said that they were used to store grain. The hillside was a bit cooler than the main town, helping to preserve the grain.
It’s also a difficult location to rob. Despite being a short hike, the steep grade and altitude made it challenging. Not for the faint of heart, both figuratively and literally.
There were also rumors that this or another ruin on the hillside served as a prison, which would make sense.
The Pinkuylluna trailhead is located here. You proceed through the doorway and up the staircase to reach the trail to the depositos (the structures).
Qelloraqay
Qelloraqay is another small ruin just outside the town. Our host believed that it used to be a home or estate for an Incan general.
I think that tracks with the shape and size of the structure.
It’s very easy to get to Qelloraqay by following the signs in town or navigating with Google Maps.
Naupa Iglesia
We wrote more about our trip to Naupa Iglesia in our prior newsletters. This site was mystical, magical… and a long hike from Ollantaytambo.
Taxis weren’t available on the day of our visit, but you can normally hire a driver in Ollantaytambo to take you to the base of Naupa Iglesia. From there, it’s only a 20-30 minute hike to the top.
You could also stop here on your way to other ruins in the Sacred Valley.
Either way, we don’t think you should miss Naupa Iglesia! It is something special and unique.
Ollantaytambo Ruins
Of course, this list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning the main attraction of the town: its eponymous ruins.
The Ollantaytambo ruins are large, covering an area that includes terraces up the hillside, a grand temple, an extensive irrigation system with a “fountain sector,” and even a pre-Incan area.
We were floored by the stonework. You could tell which areas were fancy temples…
…and which were more humble homes.
The carvings were beyond impressive. Did I mention they had a thing for fountains?
I had to remind myself that these ruins (and Machu Picchu) are relatively recent history. The 1400s and 1500s saw the construction of cathedrals and other stone structures in Europe, so it isn’t a stretch that the same technology existed in South America. But I’m still impressed.
The Ollantaytambo Ruins get busy in the middle of the day, as it’s a common stop before boarding the train to Machu Picchu. If you stay in Ollantaytambo, you can easily go in the morning or evening. You’ll want to spend an hour or two.
You have to buy a ticket to get in here, but we think it’s well worth the price. The Boleto Turistico Option 3 is S./70 and includes admission to Ollantaytambo, Pisac, Moray, and Chinchera for two days. You can also buy a complete Boleto Turistico for S./130 for access to 13+ sites throughout the Sacred Valley. Buy your ticket at the ruins themselves; there’s no need to purchase in advance.
Ollantaytambo Town
This list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning the town itself!
Ollantaytambo was rebuilt in the 1400s after being conquered by an Incan general. The village has remained in constant use since then.
We loved the stone buildings, yellow stucco, and active water system running through the town. It’s still very much in use – we saw both a dog and a car being washed in the gutter.
The town has a main square in the center that is lined with shops and excellent food. The area is well worth a wander.
You must shop for something made out of alpaca wool! I very rarely buy souvenirs when we travel since most items are generic (and, sadly, made in China), but the alpaca goods were beautifully made and applicable for our post-travel life in the Wyoming cold.
We were shocked at how cheap the sweaters, scarves, and blankets were. You’ll pay ¼ to ⅓ of what you would pay for alpaca items in the USA (which means most items, including adult sweaters, are US$25 or less). Everything is made in Peru, so you’re supporting the local economy, too.
Itinerary
Hotel
Ayllu B&B Ollantaytambo ($40/night, breakfast included) – Send Nicol and Antonio our love!
Food
My god, there is delicious food in Ollantaytambo. What’s the secret to Peruvian cuisine? Two things, in our opinion: 1) delicious sauces and 2) beautifully grilled meat.
We ate at many of the restaurants around the main square given the duration of our stay. Every single one served great food that we enjoyed. These are just the ones that I saved!
- Apu Veronica – Our favorite! We ate here twice. The food is top-notch and the sauces are delish. Although the prices were higher than what we’d normally pay, the portions were large enough for two meals. We saved our leftovers for the next day. Try the platter with beef, alpaca, and lamb steaks. I’m not drooling, you’re drooling.
- CHUNCHO – A very nice restaurant that’s known for its five-course tasting menu. They have a regular menu, too, if that isn’t your thing.
- La Serranita – We tried the alpaca pizza. Tasty and served us both.
- Uchucuta – We tried the skewers with beef, chicken, and alpaca. Very good and great presentation.
- Sabor Magico Grill – We tried the aji de gallina, a traditional Peruvian chicken dish, and ceviche.
What to Order
- Pisco Sour – A traditional Peruvian cocktail. We had to try one to compare with Chile, though we admit we tried it in the Lima airport where it was free.
- Chicha Morada – It looks like purple Kool-Aid, but it’s made from purple corn. I found it shockingly sweet and didn’t really care for it. You can try it at a street cart in the main square or in the Lima airport lounge.
- Lomo Saltado – This popular beef stir fry dish is a mashup of Peruvian and Chinese cuisine. They cook thinly sliced beef with fresh vegetables and serve it over rice. We loved it.
- Any kind of grilled meat – Grilled beef, chicken, trout, alpaca – the Peruvians know how to do it all.
- Chimichurri – You don’t need to order this sauce. It will be served with everything. Slather your food. You won’t regret it.
- Ceviche – Again, what kind of trip to South America would this be if we didn’t try ceviche in every country? It’s recommended to eat it at lunch when it’s still fresh. Only tourists eat ceviche for dinner.
- The Menu Turistico – Most small restaurants offer a menu turistico for S./15-20 that includes an appetizer, a main dish, and sometimes a dessert. It’s a great deal, but don’t expect leftovers. You can often order lomo saltado or grilled chicken, both earlier on this list, as part of a menu turistico.
Transportation
Getting to Ollantaytambo
This is important: Arrange a driver to pick you up from the Cusco airport through your hotel! A private driver costs S./120 one-way from Cusco to Ollantaytambo and vice versa. The drive takes about 1.5 hours.
Do not rely on Uber or any other ride share app to get you from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. The taxi drivers have a fixed price for rides from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. Uber’s pricing is much lower – about ⅔s the agreed-upon rate. We had two separate Uber drivers accept our ride and then attempt to renegotiate the price of our trip. One of those drivers already had us in his vehicle. This is dangerous and stressful. Learn from our mistake and don’t try it.
In Ollantaytambo
The town is small and walkable. If you don’t want to walk uphill to return to Ayllu B&B, you can hail a tuk-tuk in the main square for about S./5. Our hotel also pre-scheduled a tuk-tuk to bring us home from the train station after Machu Picchu for about S./10.
We were unable to try any local buses or colectivos during our trip, but they do exist in the Valley.
Currency
Peru uses the Peruvian Sol, designated by S./. Most businesses accept and prefer cash payments, especially for small transactions. We paid cash for our hotel, drivers, restaurants, and alpaca wool treasures. Credit cards are accepted at some businesses, especially for larger transactions.
ATMs are available in Cusco, including the airport, and Ollantaytambo. We used BCP ATMs.
Disclaimer
Peru’s political situation is ongoing and may change at any time. Do your own research before traveling. We recommend contacting your local hotel and monitoring local news for the best information.
The Sacred Valley’s primary industry is tourism. Everyone we met was kind, helpful, and protective of tourists. They didn’t want us to be caught up in their strife and went to great lengths to ensure our safety without us even asking. This may not be the case in other regions of Peru.
Ollantaytambo is located about 1.5 hours from Cusco by car. There is no airport in Ollantaytambo.
Travel Tip of the Week
Throwback to our favorite travel tools!
Last time we talked about Peru, we wrote this list of seven critical travel tools you need to have. It’s helpful no matter where you are!
Finally, credit where it’s due: Bob, from our Antarctica cruise, thank you for recommending that we stay in Ollantaytambo for a week. That was hands-down the best travel advice we’ve ever received.
If you enjoyed this newsletter, we’d love it if you would share us with your friends.
Happy travels,
Pete and Perry